Yes, it is possible to care for your product too much. This unhealthy passtime may be referred to as the "Christmas Morning Syndrome". Every day you wake up with your shiney new gear next to the bed in as new condition. The question is, is it the result of the lack of time in the wild, or the beginning of a wasteful gear fetish.
Footwear may degrade from lack of use or over immersion with treatments, whereas waterproof shells have historically been under washed, to their detriment. There are some simple rules for use and storage that will prolong your equipment's life expectancy. The following articles provide a rough guide for the care of your equipment. However, its important to follow the manufacturer's instructions for product care as these will be specific to the combinations of materials used.
Footwear: General and Rock Shoes
Clothing: Waterproof Shells, Softshells, Wool and Synthetics
Down Insulation: Sleeping Bags and Clothing
Tents and Shelters
Packs
Electronic Equipment: Headtorches, GPSs and Watches
Kitchen: Cooking, Water Treatment and Hydration Equipment
Sleeping Mats
Hardwear: Mountaineering, Rock Climbing, Hiking
Use treatments recommended and designed to be used on the materials your boot is made from. Oil based products are not recommended. Before you apply any treatment, make sure the footwear is cleaned, with a light brush if necessary, and a damp cloth. Slightly damp leather or fabric will more readily absorb treatments be they water proofing or conditioning. Eyelets will need to be kept clean and dry to minimise the build up of rust.
Its as important not to over-treat footwear as it is to not over-saturate it with water when cleaning or during use. Excesses of either may reduce rather than increase their life. Re-treat when necessary or after severe use. Salt water will ruin any material as the salt crystallises when left to dry, the crystals in turn abrading / cutting away at the materials. Corrosion of eyelets or metal parts will also occur. Salt deposits within our own sweat can create these kinds of damage on a smaller scale, giving you another reason to make sure you clean and care for your footwear.
Drying footwear in a cool, dry place, with the footbed removed, out of direct sunlight and away from other heat sources (sun, fire or a heater) is the best way. Don't put paper inside the boots, drying will take longer. Wipe down the inside of the footwear first, if its needed, getting rid of sweat and any gravel or twigs, as they may puncture a Gore-Tex membrane or wear away at the lining.
Repair is best left to a professional. If in doubt, give us a call and we can refer you to the best in the business.
Clean and treat as recommended by the manufacturer, similar to above. Usually after use, a damp cloth wipe down on the inside is a good way to start caring for your rock shoes. Dry away from heat sources, as outlined above, but most importantly, don't leave the shoes in your gear box, pack or stuff sack to fester. Store them in a cool dry environment after a thorough airing.
Lined or synthetic rock shoes tend to smell more than unlined leather, but both have amazing potential for olfactory putrefaction. Ants give off an unmistakeable odor when squashed, and frequent crags in warmer climates, so blame it on them. They like rock shoes, so hang em out of the way when belaying. Eyelets will need to be kept clean and dry to minimise the build up of rust, caused most often by salty sweat that makes its way to the outside of the shoe.
Resoling is a great way to make your shoes last longer, if you get them done in time. Usually two resoles, after the original, is possible and the frequency of which depends on the accuracy of your footwork on rock. Climbing thoughtfully and acurately saves money as well as energy. Gyms tend to make shorter work of the soles than outdoor crags. As a rule, when 20% of the sole remains under the big toe, where most wear occurs, its time to resole. If you start to wear through the rubber toe rand, or leather is visible there, it might not be worth resoling due to some loss of shape.
There are usually a number of retread / resole thicknesses and compound options, and half or full retread options. Try and chose options applicable to the orginal shoe specifications or your climbing style. Contact us for advice and details on resolers / retreaders we recommend.
