Introduction:  If you’re thinking of travelling to New Zealand for your bushwalking or rock-climbing holidays for the first time, here’s a couple of articles with some hints and tips.  I’ve written this to hopefully encourage folks to make choices that’ll make their time in NZ a lot more pleasant and save them some dollars.

Here are some general ideas I have that apply to both climbing and bushwalking (tramping) in NZ

1.     It rains a lot.  The East coast gets a lot less than the West. Fiordland (southern west coast) receives approx 6-8 meters (!) of rain annually.  I believe there’s been a recording of 14m of annual rainfall somewhere in Fiordland/ West Coast area near Haast.  Christchurch gets about 400-500mm.

2.     Sandflies are our biggest outdoor pest.  The best defence is to cover up (I wear really lightweight nylon trousers even through the heat of summer when climbing, tramping and camping) and any exposed areas, like neck or hands, use a DEET based insect repellent (preferably with no more than 20% DEET).  They’re worst at dawn and dusk and they won’t bother you when you’re moving.

3.     Take it easy, ease into our mountain areas, their unique access, weather and culture.  All too many visitors have a hard time and get themselves in the media by underestimating our tracks, rivers and mountains.

4.     There is nothing poisonous in NZ that’s likely to wind you up in hospital.  But contrary to popular belief there are at least 4 poisonous things in NZ:  1. The Redback (migrant from Oz)  2. The Whitetail (migrant from Oz) 3.  The Katipo (endangered native, very similar to the Redback)  4. Onga Onga (a large stinging nettle bush that has, on rare occasions, been fatal and can even kill a horse!).  But don’t worry about all that.

If you see a Tasmanian Brushtailed Opossum and you can bring yourself to kill it, you’re one step on your way to being granted citizenship.  There are approx between 70-90 million “possums” in New Zealand which consume approx 21000 tons of foliage per night, competing directly with endangered native bird species.  Possums are not native, they’re a problem.  We poison, trap, shoot and run over them. They’re not cute, furry animals to rural or outdoor minded New Zealanders. (15–23 possums are needed for 1 kg of fur which sells for $108.)

Bushwalking, we call it “tramping”.

Conservation land in NZ is looked after by the Department of Conservation (DoC or DOC), it’s similar to Parks over here.  Most major towns near conservation estates have a DoC office where maps, hut passes and local guide books can be purchased, weather forecasts and track information can be obtained.  Most offices can point you in the direction of river safety training courses (see ”Rivers” below).

Huts

NZ has an amazing network of backcountry huts.  The history behind these huts, goes back to the period after WW2 when the government was encouraging the public and ex servicemen with rifles into the backcountry to tackle our growing deer epidemic (Deer, introduced in the 1870’s for sport, had very quickly multiplied destroying native bush).  A hut network was established as a result and has been maintained and developed since.  Backcountry huts vary from a simple tin shed that sleeps two and has resident mice, to large buildings that sleep over 40.  The culture for backcountry huts works like this: You purchase a hut pass for a particular grade of hut before you use it.  You can use this at any hut of the same or less grade.  If you camp within 200 meters of the hut you pay half the price of the cost of the hut (an acknowledgement that you’ll probably use some of the hut’s facilities).  There is no way to “book” a backcountry hut and beds are allocated on a first in first served basis.  The pass you’ve purchased entitles you to use and stay in the hut, it doesn’t guarantee you a bed.  Ideally everyone cooperates and is mindful of each other, especially important in a crowded hut.

To illustrate this point; on one occasion I was tramping in the Mt Owen area with a group of 10 clients.  It was raining and we arrived at a hut in the evening to find that a couple of goat cullers were based in the hut but still out for the day.  On their return they were wet, tired and understandably grumpy at finding the hut over-run with tourists. Most of our group elected to sleep outside in tents but use the hut for cooking and eating, much to the surprise of the cullers, who had visions of having to sleep on the floor*, I’m sure.  From my tent I listened as the more forward female members of our group won over the grumpy, reserved cullers.  When I walked back inside in the morning I found our group delightfully watching video-cam footage of the goat hunt in all it’s gory details, dogs, guns and dead goats.  One never knows who you’ll meet in these huts and that is part of the adventure.  By the way its often more peaceful to sleep on the veranda than in the hut.

(*Note: It’s expected that club or guided groups relinquish bunk spaces to others in an overcrowded situation.  For this reason, at the least, a sleeping mat should be carried on hut trips.)

Rivers

Most outdoor activity related deaths in New Zealand are from drowning.  Most fatalities tramping are from river crossings.  There’s probably an unfavourable statistic for Australians that get drowned in our rivers but I don’t know it.  The Mountain Safety Council, an organisation in NZ that teaches outdoor skills to members of the public, a few years ago changed the name of its “River Crossing” courses to “River Safety” courses (note the change in emphasis).  And that’s all I’ve got to say about our rivers really: If you’re unsure whether you can cross safely, look for a better place, or wait for the river level to drop.  Don’t cross rivers alone and know modern river safety techniques.  Our rivers are wild, lethal and their conditions change quickly.  If you’re tramping in New Zealand wear sturdy footwear, don’t take your shoes off to cross a river (the boots protect your feet and keep you more stable and agile) and you’re going to get wet feet no mater how tricked up the gore-tex boot you’re wearing.  Just think: Wet feet = less painful blisters.  The popularity of walking pole use in recent years has increased, and these can add stability in river safety situations (or similarly any stick to lean on or use as a link or aid).

Drinking water: The water from streams higher up is usually safe to drink.  I’ve had Guardia once; I’ll still drink untreated water.  Anywhere animals or people can get to there is the risk of unclean water, which is offset by fast flow and the remoteness of the chosen areas.

Waterproof tramping packs don’t exist. You can get cheep, heavy-duty plastic pack liners from DoC offices; they are a great multi use item. You can cut holes in them to make a rudimentary rain jacket and they’re big enough to sleep in, if you’re that way inclined.  A pack liner turns your pack into a handy flotation device.  For more reusable non plastic options retailers sell basic lightweight to heavyweight pack liners to match the capacity of your pack and abuse.  A rain cover is only useful on open and well maintained trails as it will otherwise snag in the bush, but can help minimise the increase in pack weight due to absorption.

Below is a list of basic tramping camping equipment to take on a 3-4 day trip (Note: the exclusion of cotton clothing should be a blanket rule in the outdoors as it doesn’t insulate and becomes heavy when wet, is slow to dry and, as with underwear, can cause chaffing. Look for nylon, polyester, polypropylene, merino fabric contents):

Clothing:

3                      Socks, woollen or wool/synthetic hybrid

4                      Underwear, if you need it (not cotton)

1-2                    Base layer top, wool works best

1                      Base layer bottom

1                      Lightweight nylon trousers or shorts

1                      Walking boots of your choice relevant to trip

1 (Maybe)         Gaiters to protect boots and legs from moisture, mud and abrasion

1 (Maybe)         Sandals, Crocs or something to wear around the camp/hut

2                      Lightweight mid layer

1                      Fleece + ultra-lightweight windproof or

1                      Soft-shell / Windstopper.

1                      Good rain jacket

1 (Maybe)         Waterproof pants

1                      Warm gloves (woollen is best or windproof, polypro too cold)

1                      Warm hat

1                      Sun hat

1                      Sun shirt (old white synthetic shirt from the op-shop is good)

Cooking:

2                      Pots + lid as frypan

1                      Cooker and all you need with it

1                      Cup/bowl

1                      Spork of the unbreakable variety

1                      Good cutting knife

1                      Coffee machine of course

Medical:

1                      Sun block and lip balm

1                      Roll strapping Leucoplast (use for taping blisters)

1                      Elastic tape

1                      Roll elastoplast

1                      Tweezers

1                      Betadine

1                      Scissors

1                      Packet of painkillers, antihistamines and anti inflammatory

1 (Maybe)         Second Skin/ equivalent for blisters and triangular bandages

1                      Insect repellent

Camping/ sleeping/ travelling:

1                      Medium weight sleeping bag + liner

1                      Sleeping mat (even if you’re expecting to stay in huts)

1                      Tent (3 seasons) (simple fly if you’re going to stay in huts)

1                      60 litre pack + pack liner

 

If you’re going in winter throw in a warmer fleece and/or a synthetic fill or down jacket, make sure you can deal with sleeping in temps down to -10 if you’re going to mid altitude huts (1000-2000m).  That’s about it really.

Rockclimbing in New Zealand

You’ve got better rock here in Australia than we have in New Zealand and you have more of it.  There are many gems however and a good few more adventurous, alpine options.  Below I’ve listed some of the highlights with a brief summary of each.

Going generally from North to South:

Wharepapa, Froggat: (and other Wairapa crags)

A few hours drive southish from Auckland there’s a great little variety of sport cliffs and bouldering centred around Bryce’s, a campground, shop and much more, catering for climbers.  All in all a lovely scene in a green, rural setting.  10 quickdraws, 60m single rope, climbing all year round.

Whanganui Bay:

It’s worth braving the notorious road down to “the bay” on the western shores of lake Taupo, North Island.  Conditions of this road vary greatly; with increased traffic to the new Marae the road condition may be better.  A good mixture of trad and sport routes.  Access to this crag can be a sensitive issue.  Please keep your voices down and seek current information on access issues/conduct when you arrive.  It’s a very wonderful and uniquely New Zealand climbing experience.  Bolt brackets may be useful if you’re unlucky.  Most routes have been rebolted…  Some more than once…  Take 12 quickdraws, cams ½ to 3.5 (Wildcountry friend sizes), Wires 2-9 and double up on mid sizes, single 60m rope OK.  Loveliest in summer, though it can be hot.

Golden Bay:  Guidebook: Golden Bay Climbs, Middlemass/Watson.

Also known as “the bay”, which is located at the northern end of the South Island.  Climbing here is centred around Hangdog, a wonderfully friendly and crazy climbers campground.  There’s a bunkhouse there too.  Great roof bouldering over the water and slopey sport routes.  There are cliffs near the sea too.  Great party/alternative scene over summer (family friendly), the area is lush and scenic.  10 quickdraws and a 50m rope generally gets you by.  Climbing all year round, wet season in spring.

Charleston:  Guidebook: NZAC Rock Deluxe.

Situated 25 minutes south of Westport on the West Coast, there are not too many routes here but the rock around the big corner (“racing in the streets”, 15, I think) is rather good quality.  There’s a growing number of bolts here but most of the routes are on placed gear.  Climbing takes place off a rock shelf just above the high tide line, in a big westerly swell there’s some spectacular wave action.  Camp for free (last time I checked) at Constance Bay and head up to the local pub for a feed in the evenings.  Remember the insect repellent.  Full trad rack and double ropes for the wandering routes are good.  Climbing all year round.  Wet season in spring.

Castle Hill:  Guidebook: NZAC Rock Deluxe (there are other guidebooks).

There is a lot written about this place so I won’t try to add to it.  You’ll need sun block, a mat, various brushes etc.  Access to Flock hill is by prior arrangement and a liability waiver has to be signed.  Flock hill is more of a walk in but has better quality and less polished (at the time of writing) problems.  There’s holiday homes to rent in Castle Hill village or camping at the start of the Broken River ski field road, where there’s a picnic shelter.  Don’t go in summer.

Twin Stream:  Guidebook: NZAC Barron Saddle – Mt Brewster.

It’s a 5 minute flight by helicopter from Glentanner Park which is a few minutes before The Hermitage at Mt Cook(03 4351855 or 0800 650651), well worth it.  You’ll need permission from the land owner, Ross Ivey (03 4351843) as there are sometimes Thar hunters in the cirque.  This can be done at the Helicopter Line office.  You can fit 4-5 people in the Squirrel helicopter, depending on how much gear and wine you have.  You’ll need to carry out your crap (Poo bags are available from DoC Mt Cook, I carry a plastic jar to store these in on the walk out).  The cirque is compact and dry so shit under rocks was becoming a bit of an issue.  This area has great alpine crags, up to about 5 pitches long, a great introduction to alpine crags if you’re thinking of going to the Darrans.  14 quickdraws of various lengths, Cams 0-3.5, Wires RP’s to #9 (pretty much a double rack of these), 2x 60m ropes (a sub 9mm half and a 9+mm single are a good combo).  Can generally camp under a bivvy rock (there’s several large ones around).  Best Jan-March.  Take a downy, you’ll be camping at 1600m.

Wanaka crags:  Guidebook; Wanaka Rock (latest edition available from Wanaka outdoor retailers).  Also, NZAC Rock Deluxe.

There’s a huge variety of, usually, but not always, small crags and boulders around Wanaka.  The climbing is generally sport climbing on Schist.  A lovely scenic and social area with softish grades (if that’s important).  Can be a bit hot in summer, but nothing that you’re not used to.  Remember your sun block.

Queenstown: Guidebook; NZAC Rock Deluxe.

The gem here has to be “Chinamans Bluff”, up the Dart River Valley from Queenstown.  You can drive there and then walk 3/4hrs or so to the climbing.  “Ravages of time” 20 is an awesome introduction to the place, 10 very different pitches, through some very beautiful Beech forest.  Plenty of sandflies to keep you moving.  You’ll need 2x 50m ropes, a rack #3 wires, up to #4 cam and 14 quickdraws.

There’s plenty of other climbing around Queenstown.  Wye Creek is noteworthy and up on top of the Remarkables.  Good bouldering at Jardines.  Local guidebooks available from Queenstown outdoor retailers.

Lovers Leap: Guidebook: NZAC Rock Deluxe.

Not exactly a well known destination, rather like a sea-side Frog buttress in Dunedin.  Very exposed feeling, with a sea zawn and baying sea-lions behind and below you.  An awesome crag, I think.  Routes are sustained and start at about grade 20.  Mixed bolts and placed gear 20-30m pitches, the rock is volcanic columns.  A good place to go if the weather’s poxy in the west.  There’s also Mihiwaka near here too, awesome moderate trad routes.

The Darrans:  Guidebook: The Darran Mountains, NZAC.

There are 2 very different styles of climbing in the Darrans, sport crags down in the valleys and varying degrees of adventurous climbing on the mountain crags.  Both styles are covered in the guide book.  The rock is generally glacial worn granite/diorite.  For the sport climbing take 12-14 quickdraws and a 60m single rope.  And for the adventurous stuff you’ll also need cams 0-3.5.  Wires and RP’s to #9 (pretty much a double rack of these).  And ropes, 2x 60m (a sub 9mm half and a 9+mm single are a good combo).

The sport climbing is pretty straight forward, with most of the routes being over grade 23.  For the alpine crags, the exposure of getting about can be a bit daunting.  Luckily the Darrans are an awesome technical tramping/alpine scrambling area, with lots of technical terrain to explore.  So consider for your first trip to this magic area a spot of tramping with a rope and ice axe.  Go and check out the crags and mountains; Sabre, the crags on Barrier, Moir and walk the Grave/Talbot pass.  Then you’ll be able to find your way around, with less stress when you’re wandering with all that climbing gear in a cloud.

Accommodation is in Homer Hut (NZAC).  Take plenty of insect repellent, a deck of cards (for the rain), sit back in the comfort of the hut and watch Keas (a mountain parrot) destroy your car.  The Darran Mountains are, perhaps, NZ climbing at it’s best (when the weather is good).  You can always escape to Queenstown, Dunedin or Wanaka when the weather is shitty.

 

There’s plenty of other crags but any combination of these should make a worthy road trip.  Whether you’re tramping or climbing, or a combination of the two I hope you enjoy your stay.

 

This article was written by Chris Burtenshaw, a well travelled and experienced outdoor enthusiast currently and sporadically residing in Sydney.  Chris regularly works as a guide in climbing and walking capacities, in New Zealand and abroad.